As promised I am putting forward information on the installation of iron balusters. While the day, one of the most coarse questions I get from customers is the how to of iron baluster installation.
Many construction codes want three balusters on a tread to comply with the 4" sphere rule. Check with your local code officials if you have any doubts about your stair's compliance.
First, I let the customer know that the very last thing in balustrade installation is the iron balusters. It naturally works well to install the newel posts, handrail, treads and risers first. Once installed layout the balusters on the floor and use a level to plumb up to the handrail center and mark the connection at the center bottom of the handrail. Using a ½" paddle or spade bit one can drill upward 1" deep into the handrail. Using a 5/8" paddle bit drill a hole no more than ¼" deep into the floor. Once these are drilled out the bottom of the handrail can be sanded with an orbital sander and the faultless balustrade theory can be stained and finished. Once the stain and terminate is completed one can begin installing the iron balusters.
One of the following two tools is recommended for cutting iron or metal balusters: a power miter box with a metal cutting blade, or a transported band saw. My preference is the transported band saw. It works cleaner, is more portable, and doesn't cause sparking as does the power miter box (or chop saw).
Turn the baluster upside down and set the round dowel top into the hole in the floor, holding the baluster plumb to the hole under the handrail. Mark the baluster with a pencil, measure up 3/8" minimum and that would be the cut mark. Note that you are cutting off the bottom, not the top, of the baluster. This ensures proper alignment of the compose elements.
For gluing the installer has two options: Epoxy or construction adhesive. My personal preference is construction adhesive as I have more control over the stock and, if it gets messy, wipes away positively and can also serve as a caulk colse to the iron. Epoxy comes in the mixing tubes and doesn't all the time mix properly. If it gets messy and dried, removing the epoxy also removes the powder coating on the iron. Some carpenters prefer and have their own control over epoxy. I do not. I find construction adhesives easier to work with.
Squeeze a small number of the adhesive into the hole under the handrail. The adhesive is thick and slow and will not drain back out, giving time to faultless the installation. Make sure the shoe for the iron baluster is slid up while installing. Push baluster's round dowel up into the ½" hole under the handrail and then drop it into the 5/8" hole in the floor in a bed of further construction adhesive. Square off the baluster's alignment then drop the shoe down to the floor. If the shoe comes with a set screw, use an Allen wrench to tighten it. The glue in the handrail hole will determine colse to the baluster creating a excellent seal. Once the glue has dried the baluster will be well secured, even helping to strengthen the handrails load.
When installing 5/8" iron balusters the process is identical, one only needs to drill a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. 5/8" iron is ideal in remodeling work, when replacing wood balusters. Most installed wood balusters have a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. If replacing wood balusters with ½" iron it is regularly recommended to install shoes under the handrail to cover a small Square peg in a larger round hole. The use of wood or cabinet screws helps to lock the baluster in, serving as both a wedge and forcing the baluster on center.
Round 5/8" iron or metal balusters can be installed without shoes naturally by drilling a 5/8" hole into the handrail and into the floor and following the same policy outlined above.
I have been asked about making the holes square. It is possible with a slight more work. To cut the Square hole in the floor or handrail, drill a round hole in the wood the same size at the baluster's extensive width. Then chisel out the hole to make it square. Another selection is a "mortising bit." I have not used one of these but have spoken with carpenters who have. Their comment tends to be that this formula is a "pain in the you know what."How to install Iron Or Metal Balusters in Wood Handrails